Saito's Dojo
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Quintain pattern page

quin·tain (kwintin)


an object supported by a crosspiece on a post, used by knights as a target in tilting


Ok I saw one of these at Gulf Wars and I liked the design and the fact that it broke down for transport. 

I believe the maker of the one I saw was made by Eule von Haginbald.  

I made mine from memory and trying parts till they worked. This is a work in progress so I am sure I will be changing stuff the more I get to use it. 


Sato's Parts list

I used the following parts. I was on a budget and so you might find better parts that cost more or work better. This is just suggestions to get you thinking and building.  Read this all before buying any of these parts. 


1 - 4x4 treated 8 foot long

4 - 2x4 's treated

1 small piece of scrap plywood

1 left over can of white paint

1 - 5 inch swivel dyna tread wheel from Tractor supply found in wheels isle in any farm supply

3 - 3 packs of Gate house hinges #0205796(you may want to use slightly smaller hinges and I will get into why below. But I used these they were really cheap priced but sturdy looking at Lowes.  You need 12 hinges total to make this so it breaks down for transport easy. 

1 box of gatehouse hinge pins (don't need them but I figure I will loose hinge pins if I remove them to break this down as planned)

Box of 1 5/28 dry wall screws (could have used the screws in the gatehouse package but I had these and they looked stronger)

 small bit of rope

1/2  YARD of burlap or some rough sturdy fabric

Some gravel from my drive way


3 of your 2x4's are for legs. One 2x4 needs saved for the arm. 

 Start by cutting 4 two foot long base legs from your 2x4's. 

Cut 2 three foot leg uprights and 2 two foot 10 inch leg uprights. 

Lay one of the 2 foot base legs on the 4x4 at the base and attach it with its hinge. I used another piece of wood to simulate it sitting on the ground as I attached that hinge.  Work the hinge forward and back before putting  all screws in to make sure its straight. Now I had drilled 2 extra holes in each hinge and didn't use the holes at the edge of the hinge since I thought they might split the 4 x4 since they end up near the edge. You might want to use more expensive smaller hinges if you don't want to drill these extra holes in all 12 hinges.   


Attach the 3 foot upright to the end of the 2 foot base leg. Again work the 3 foot piece through the full movement and straightening before putting in more than one screw in each side of hinge.  

Line up the other end of the 3 foot upright against the 4x4 and mark holes for hinge.  Take the pin out of the last hinge you put in so you can now attach the last hinge for this leg.   You should have one of the 4 legs done.


The reason we used 3 hinges is so you can remove the pin on the top hinge of that leg (and on the others when done) and the whole leg will lay flat against the post for travel like this


Repeat the above for the leg on the opposite side of the 4x4.


For the two other legs you will use the same leg build as above but you will use the 2 two foot 10 inch leg uprights with your remaining two 2 foot 2x4 pieces.  Note -when you go to put the 4th legs base hinge on you will notice there isn't room for that last hinge if you use the same gatehouse hinges I used. you can either cut part of the last hinges edge off or do what I did. Buy one more slightly smaller gatehouse hinge. 

The reason these other two last legs are just a little shorter than the other two 3 foot uprights is so the legs four uprights don't meet at the same spot on the 4x4 upright. This leaves you room for all 4 hinges and room to remove the hinge pins later for break down. 


I cut my 4x4 upright at 7 foot figuring that is about where a shield on a horse rider would roughly be.

Now grab your wheel. 

Remove the nut that holds the wheel in. We want the swivel arm and the bolt and nut. The wheel we wont need again. 

Lay your last 2x4 in the space the wheel was. See how that fits and mark and drill some holes for screws. We will re-use the bolt and nut to help hold the arm in place but the screws are still needed.   I then took a scrap piece of plywood and drew a small shield and attached it to one end of the plywood.  Wasn't sure what size the shield should be so I went with a small shield figuring I wanted a challenge not a easy target. I measured and cut my boom arm to be 6 foot long. I wanted the arm to be a little longer than the base.  I measured to the center of the 6 foot and mounted the swivel arm at the center of my 6 foot 2x4.  I then drilled a hole in the other end of the 2x4 (end opposite the shield). Hole is for the rope later.

 I then screwed that swivel base with lag bolts into the top of my 4x4 upright. 

I then took the bag the wife made from the rough fabric and put some small gravel in it and hung it from the rope.  After using this the first time I now plan to half the size of this bag.  


It occurred to me after to drill a hole in each of the bases of the legs for a pin to stake this to the ground.