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Pas dArmes
2004 Garb


Here are some of Ise's sewing projects

The Heraldry walls

Ise has been keeping the Calontir OP history alive with wall hangings of each of the peerages devices in the order made. There is also one of all the royals in order made. She also has one larger Op wall hanging with all the peers in Op order. This one is interactive learning since you can lift the device and read the names on the back after guessing the owner.   These can be seen brightening the walls at most B3R events and most coranations.


 Kings and Queens of Calontir
Pelicans of Calontir

Laurels of Calontir

Chivalry of Calontir
Combined Op

Combined OP

2015 -See a compilation of Ise's many caparisons here
2010 update
-  See the current projects page to see the tons of barding, banner and equestrian related sewing projects Ise has completed recently. Click here.

2004 Garb created Click Here



Below are some of my past sewing projects.

This wall hanging is from the Pas d' Armes event in Three Rivers. For details on this wall hanging Click HERE

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This wall hanging was made for the 1st Thunder Wars.  For details on this Wall hanging click here

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More wall hangings click on text to see them.
All the active knight's in Calontir as of Fernando and Lyriel's Coronation. It is to be updated with each reign. All the acitve laurel's in Calontir as of Fernando and Lyriel's reign. it is to be updatred with each reign.
Wall hangings based on illuminated letter backgrounds. The structure is to make them mobile as one cannot peg walls in rented halls(the correct way to hang them). they also have loops to facilitate either a rod or rope to be run through them, depending on where they are to be hung agaisnt a wall, over a doorway(to hide/block access) across a roomto divide it into samller rooms or chambers, to hide the uglies in say a bingo hall site. Another wall hanging based on on illuminated letter backgrounds


Various projects Ise has done.

Click on thumb nail images or text to see the larger version of the below pictures.
                        (1822 bytes) This Presence was created as a backdrop to thrones and to help decorate modern looking sites. It has been used at Baronial Courts and Calontir Coronations and Rose Ceremonies.

Presence is made to be free standing unlike the period examples. It’s overhang can be raised or lowered to fit the room’s ceiling height. One doesn’t find rooms with exposed and painted kingpost trusses like the French examples from which one can hang it.

If someone has a picture of it at Fernando and Lyriel’s coronation in the side chapel, where it was blocking the modern crucifiction picture(with Senator Danforth) but adding color to the wonderful marble offeratory or table, I’d like a copy to post. They held the rose ceremony there.

Examples of Presences in art

Gerard David (ca.1460-1523)

The mystical marriage of St Catherine1505-1510

The Justice of Cambyses/the arrest of the Judge Sisamnes 1498

                        (2937 bytes) Sato in white suo- over black kosode and hakama; the burgundy hitatare (with the top on inside out accidently) over a grey kosode; a black silk kosode and black patterned brocade hakama; and the priestly or courtly round collared top in white is called a jo-e or ho-i or kariginu depending on if courtly or priestly or samurai (formal or informal).
                        (10034 bytes) This was a fun project Sato and I worked on. I sewed all the garb for a jesters outfit to fit over Sato's hidden armor.  Sato made special puppet shaped weapons to fight with. This outfit was designed for the Three rivers Pa d' Armes event but has been used at numerous events and demos because the fighting jester is so popular and fun.
                        (4951 bytes) The fighter jester at a Ren Fair.
                        (2550 bytes) This is the first pavilion I ever made. This was made around 1988 and lasted late into the mid 90's as our main pavilion and was later used till the late 90's as a community pavilion and armor tent and later remnants of it became a Viking sunshade.  The walls of it are still in use on Malices pavilion trailer.
                        (1819 bytes) This is the newest pavilion I have made. I have since added a set of banners which fly from the top 3 poles. I will try to find a newer photo soon.
                        (5638 bytes) The theme of a recent Lilies was Viking versus the world. Our household the Scottish outpost decided to fight on the side of the Vikings. We thought it would be fun to "make fun of the Vikings we were fighting with"  and wear big horns on or helmets. I sewed helmet headbands with giant cloth cow horns on them to represent Viking horned helmets. These horns on all our fighters got a alot of fun responses. Everything from laughs to challenges on the field at the site of them.
                        (4483 bytes) Here is a picture from 2000 with Ise and Sato standing in our armor before battle at pennsic. I sew all of our fighting cloths and you can get a close up look at the pavilion in this photo. Also the white balls across our chest are recreations of the harnesses warriors would wear into battle on long sieges or campaigns. They were cloth bands with balls of cooked rice and fish wrapped and strung in a harness that could be eaten in the field. We saw these in a period picture and thought they would be fun to wear and recreate. Ise found this to slide down and capture your arm while fighting. Sato found if it was tied in 3 spots to armor it didn't move. THe word for the riceball contraption is "uki-bukuro" or a smaller one for rice "uchi-gae"
In pictures below
GARB90.jpg (10849 bytes)

Ise no Kusunoki in pine tree combination. (actually needs more layers).

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Blue and white kamishimo (kataginu and hakama) over a cotton wave pattern kosode. On his head eboshi of black cloth. The white belt is correct both the costume and Sato’s rank as knight. Made in blue linen and white cotton.

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Blue patterned hitatare. formal warrior wear.

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Priestly garb ho-i (white overcoat), blue hakama, two white kosode underneath it, juzu (buddhist prayer beads), shakujo, and tokin (small black cap).

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Yamabushi clothes: overcoat blue sheer silk, white kosode, light green linen hakama, tekou (forearm covers) and horogai/habaki/kyahan (shinguards in cotton). Most of this costume was finished by hand as the machine blew up. 2 Pennsic days were spent finishing it, so Sato could visit his S.C.A. father in full monkly dress.



The shakujo is a shakujo yari made by Sato’s squire Thadeus McTyre. The top is a three part casting in brass. The staff is octagonal in cross section which is traditional for pilgrim’s staffs even today in climbing Fuji-san. The brass endcap is to keep the bottom from wearing shorter. The brass bands hide the release mechanism for the blade, as Sato says "I don’t necessarily as good a monk as I could be."

I got the correct terms from japanese art and samurai books, then Sato did the web research and sent it on to Thadeus. The blazon in the center of the six rings is a simplified version of Sato’s devise in the society-he didn’t quite give up the ‘outside world’ while being a monk. In reality, many samurai took vows, entering the cloistered world of the monestary and would later exit the monestary as recalled by their overlord or family business etc. Sato was not pleased with the shin guards, so I will be working on improvements to the design.

Still to make for the monkly stuff-

a better kesa/gesa or the quilt that hold reliques of the saints in it.

a tengai/igasa(monkly woven hat) of that hides the face (one the

shakuhachi players wear to prevent people from seeing their face of buddhist sect Fuke).

a tokin of wood that is lacquered

a tokin of cloth that is larger

a better kato no kesa (veil/hat sohei combination)

high geta for monk stuff either 1 or 2 tooth versons

Still to make samurai


better tsurumaki(bearskin shoes/boots)

daimon with Sato’s blazon dyed on it

shooters kote (archer sleeve)

a pair of mukabaki in spotted deerskin for the hunting uniform

a nae-eboshi or ayai-gasa or hunting hat

a better tsurumaki or spare stringholder (the woven thing that looks like a doughnut on the pictures)

yugake or archery glove

bearfur jimbaori-not sure it is actually correct now but we’re $300 in fur into that project.

Ise's hat she made. Everybody comments on this hat and loves it so here it is!  Ise will hopefully put the details of the hat here soon(when she sees I added her picture to her page without asking)  8 )

hat.jpg (19486 bytes) -Here is a link to some cool Japanese patterns


Email Tsuru(Kris)

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Some Kimino Links
Nice site with lots of good pictures and info. 

Nicely done karaginu mo site with notes and links 

English version of dressing in karaginu mo 

Gives the layers and leads to further pages by same author 

Japanese Imperial site by people who make the items, leads to many links

that aren't in english, including male courtier's garb. Gives excellent

examples of the brocades worn, hats etc. as you click on its pieces. 

French doing japanese costume, for those who read French. Click on the

costume then buttons pop so that you can look at the pieces that are a part

of the total costume. 

PS its a pissy site and you have to close your internet explorer to escape it.

Kyoto Costume Museum site. 

Also from same site. this link is a modern verison -you can tell by how the

hair is done. Actually I think they have all their models standing even

though it would be rude to be taller than an infant emperor. 

Another site leading to others 

Paperdoll version for those of you with color printers 

Feild museum dolls  

Murasaki site 

fabric site 

Mon sites:

history, short one of how they came to be 

Key Words to search

karaginu & mo = formal Heian ladies court garb, the over kimono and

backwards apron

kamishimo & hakama = kamishimo or 'upper lowers' the uniform (matching

kimono top and bottom)

kataginu = stiff overvest, what most westerners call 'bat wings' as they

stand out from the body in the way past our period verison being heavily

starched and reenforced with whalebone stays.

kariginu = informal courtier wear with tate-eboshi for Heian

ikan = formal male courtier costume Heian

eboshi = generic for cloth hat

gasa = generic for reed or rush has